Sunday, August 24, 2014

Station 3

Arriba! I mean xin chào...
After having my phone stolen and living with a Vietnamese family in a very wi-fi-less area, blogging can be recommence.

Today was a day to live like a queen. With my first night train under my belt and connecting bus ride, I made it to Sa Pa, a mountain town in the province of Lao Cai. Several women from a local village led me to a hostel they thought I might enjoy. I lingered in the lobby borrowing wi-fi and looking up reviews. After a few minutes, I was approached by a young Vietnamese man who took my picture and offered me sticky rice wrapped in big green leaves (and a peanut topping). The shady hostel reviews combined with the attention (although kind) led me to realize it was high time for some quiet time. Sleepy, grumpy, and the works, it was time to treat myself. I checked myself into the nicest hostel I could find and boy oh boy was it ever worth it. For $35 (about 750 Dong), the Sapa Lodge really had the works. Perched on the side of the mountain, my room had a spectacular view of the rice patties and Phan Xi Păng mountain-the tallest in Vietnam. The rest of the day consisted of meandering through the streets of Sapa, investigating the local museum, and meeting some of the local minorities. Women from these groups wander throughout the streets hoping to sell some of their handmade goods or take you to their village. With most of them speaking English, it was a delight to chat with them about their customs/etc. 

Having company can be rather delightful, but there has been scant to zero alone time in my last week and a half, hence my craving for some alone time. During the last week and a half, I was living with a Vietnamese family in a suburb of Hanoi. As I have now learned,  Vietnamese families are very much based on community living. Everything is shared. Beds, silverware, you name it. Thus, little introvert me nearly had a panic attack at day four. That being said,  this kind of communal living is actually quite beautiful. It provides family members with a very strong support group and members are rarely left wanting.

I was living with a family I met during my trip to Hạ Long Bay. Hướng (the mother) and I got along quite well. She invited me to stay with her family one night and I happily took up the offer. I jumped on a local bus when the time came with directions to get off at the last stop...which just so happened to be the airport. What an odd sensation to arrive at the airport with absolutely no intention of flying. Hướng picked me up shortly after and we ventured over to her home by scooter. We had a wonderful hot pot dinner that night...fresh shrimp, pool,  beef, tofu, class,  veggies and much more that is cooked upon request by placing the food item of interest in a boiling meat/pineapple/vegetable broth.The next day, they asked me to stay with them for one month in order to teach their son English. I was very interested in doing so, because not only would this me my first job abroad, but I would have the chance to learn a great deal about Vietnamese culture as well as (hopefully) pick up some of the language.

Alas, one week later, it came about the son found our language barrier a bit too tricky. Time to move! Here in Sapa now, it has been raining all day, but I think it's time to venture to the nearby village of Cat Cat.

Cheers!

Monday, August 11, 2014

Station 2

Oh là!

After several days in Hanoi, Halong bay is such a delight!
Here's a photo taken from where I'm currently sitting:



Halong Bay is situated about four hours east of Hanoi on the water. The area is known for the limestone cliffs that dot the coastline (some of which you can see in the photo). Apparently there are around 2000 of them, but I haven't finished counting yet. 
I chose to take a tour of the bay despite the fact that I've historically hated guided tours, and I'm very pleased that I did. The company picked me up from my party hostel in Hanoi and bussed us out to the water. Our group of seventeen people climbed aboard a small wooden boat that then took us to our junk or small cruise boat. Our junk, like the rest in the bay, appeared extremely dangerous with the wooden panels starting to disintegrate, rust dotting the sides and a paint job that didn't hide it's age. Alas, as Simon, the only other solo traveler in our group, and I decided, we didn't care what it looked like as long as it didn't sink. 
Off to a good start, we ventured over to a massive cave and then set out for some kayaking. Strictly instructed to stay in our kayaks, Simon and I lasted all of ten minutes before "capsizing" on purpose. The water is wonderfully warm and quite deep. 

Several girls I had chatted with about Halong described to me that the bay is extremely dirty and they chose not to swim; however, all the places we have been to so far seem quite fine as there is not much trash floating around nor used needles (the main concern around here). 

We arrived today at Monkey Island where we are staying in bungalows. They are rather well equipped! So much so that I think I may extend my stay here...despite the hear. It is incredible! I have never been this hot in my life! This, combined with jet lag and rarely speaking to a native English speaker, apparetly are having a strong effect on my oral skills. I am seriously struggling to maintain my (eloquent) speaking skills! Yikes! And talk about the short term memory loss this heat is giving me! 


Although many conversations are consequently short and simple, I have had some lovely chats with the Vietnamese folk working here as well as my travel companions. For example...

Last night was a full moon. What perfect timing to be sitting on the top deck of a boat in Halong bay. The full moon, while beautiful, is also very significant in Vietnamese culture. A Vietnamese woman explained to me that the tradition in her town was to take some sort of offering (such as food) and walk around the village while repeating a chant/prayer. She would walk around the village hundreds of times. Lacking in land, we instead were offered little cakes and cookies to eat and were told to make a wish before eating them.

I have mainly noticed that Vietnamese are very tied to food, nature and family, all of which contribute to a an outlook that is simple and kind. People are mostly distant and do not offer friendship immediately, but after being with them for some time they have been very considerate and sweet to me. 

Last night, I invited one of the guys on the boat to come sit with me. With him speaking very little English and me very, very little Vietnamese, our conversation primary became a language lesson. But, I did find out that he grew up in Halong City and has never left. I later found out that it is same for most of the other men working on the boat as well. All of the men (no women workers aboard) were very sweet...thus one example that led me to my conclusion about Vietnamese character.

Loopy from the heat! Off to the water for a dip.
Bisous!


Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Station 1

Taipei, Taiwan: The Layover

The bulk of my plane time is now complete. After sleeping through nearly the entire SF-Taipei flight, I really can't complain-nor can I see why anyone ever complains-about red-eye flights. They're perfect! Spectacular! You arrive already tired and pass right out until you're on the other side of the world.
But, for being on a new side of the planet, things are quite similar so far. My view from the airport window reveals similar scenery to what I already have tucked away in my landscape repertoire. Alas, I'm sure I would feel quite differently if I ventured into the out of (airport) doors.
I must say, however, that I am already sharply keen of my minority status. I do not have any recollection of being this aware of it in other areas that I've visited. More on that piece later.
Back to the dictionary-let the Vietnamese crash course ensue.